Day 4 - June 20 - Metoria

The next morning it’s back in the car and to the ferry and to the monasteries of Metoria. Metoria, to me was the single most impressive site in Greece. The six or so buildings that make up this complex are perched atop jutting pedestals of rock shooting out of the surrounding valley. The monasteries are built on natural sandstone rock pillars, at the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly in central Greece. Of the more than 20 monasteries originally built, only six remain today. These six are: Great Meteoron (or Transfiguration), Varlaam, St. Stephen, Holy Trinity, St. Nicholas Anapausas and Rousanou.

Access to the monasteries was originally extremely difficult, requiring either long ladders lashed together or large nets used to haul up both goods and humans. This required quite a leap of faith -- the ropes were replaced, so the story goes, only "when the Lord let them break,”. Of the six monasteries, five are inhabited by males, one by females. Each monastery has fewer than 10 inhabitants. The monasteries are now some of the most popular tourist sites in the world and now serve primarily as museums. The legend is that St. Athanasios flew to the top of the mountain on the back of an eagle. When you see the mountains you believe that there could be no other way up. However they got up there, the monasteries started in the 10th century when hermits climbed their way into many of the caves carved into the sides of these mountains, but it was not until 1336 that Athanasios (remember him?) began to build the monastery. The monasteries flourished when the king of Serbia renounced the throne to become a monk and the wealth that was accumulated from estates granted them could pay for the building. Over the centuries the estates and many of the building deteriorated so did the monastery. Now there are six major monasteries open to the public. Since many of the monasteries still house religious icons and artifacts you are not allowed to take photographs inside.

The first monastery we visit, Roussanou (St. Barbara) was founded in the middle of 16th century AD and decorated in 1560. To get there you take a very long path through the woods that appears to be a very easy hike, so Ann and I brave it by foot. The walk was longer and more strenuous then we first thought and we were even more annoyed when we are in the building we notice a car park and easy access at the bottom of the hill! However, once you emerge from the woods and walk between high walls of rock there is a nice set of stairs and a bridge to gain access. After our long and sweaty walk through woods, the colors of the woods, rocks and building make us feel like we have found an oasis – and we have. How these building were ever built and managed to stay up stagger the mind, especially when you notice that the walls of the structure are an extension of the sheer mountain it sits atop. When we enter Ann must get a wrap to cover herself. It is still a monastery and women are not allowed to show bare legs are arms. The chapels inside are spectacular. The walls and ceilings are covered in ornate frescos that are impossible to take your eyes off. We spend at least an hour inside and on our way out hit the gift shop where I buy a wood block icon of St. Demetri and some oregano in a plastic baggie (I can remember the days when I would have been pissed off if I got some oregano in a plastic baggie).

We then meet back up with Nick, who has been patiently waiting for us back at the car, to head to Megalou Meteorou (Great Meteoron). It is the largest of the monasteries and is inundated with dozens and dozens of tour buses. The car park alone is a carnival. As you approach you see the crowded walkway up and the tower. The walkway was added much later for the tourists, before that people and supplies were hoisted up in baskets and nets. There are too many rooms to mention and compared to the dignified tranquility of Roussanou almost not worth seeing. The courtyard and chapel were beautiful, and the kitchen (with still visible charring on the domed ceiling from years of cooking) was interesting to see along with the dining hall with its long tables and plate settings.

However, one room got a lot of attention. It was basically a large store room, where visitors were allowed to peek through some bars in a door to see the skeletal remains of some of the monks who once lived and worshipped here. This made me forget about all the tourists and remember that this place was built for monks, monks who wanted to live and pray and work without any interference from the outside world. So much so they built a place atop inaccessible rocks. Impressive. Back in the car for the long drive back.