Silver Spring, Maryland, United States

Day 3 - June 19 - Delphi

Back on the ferry, heading to the mainland and the ruins of Delphi! Delphi is about a three hour drive from the village, and by this time it was clear that I was the designated driver for this trip – partly because I got to drive like a crazy person and get away with it (everyone here dives insanely) - and partly because following his stroke Nick was not yet in any condition drive.

When you travel to a place like Greece you learn quickly that their ancient history based in myths derived from the natural world, actual events, rich storytelling, and religion; and it is really, really complicated for an American with only 200 years of history behind him to fathom.

Said to have been created by Python, the son of Gaia (Mother Earth), who lived in a nearby cave and communicated to the outside world through a Python Prestiss (aka The Oracle), Delphi was a place where divine advice was given to those who asked. Starting the 6th century, and after a bunch of wars and the such, Delphi became a place of respect because it was now in the center of what became known as the Amphyctionic League, the United Nations of the Greek city states, and because everyone felt that the Oracle was thought to be arbiter of truth. The Oracle was usually a devout village woman who sat on a tripod that was set up over the oracle chasm in the temple of Apollo (Some believed that the Oracles were just having visions because of the fumes given off from the volcanic chasm she sat on top of - although no chasm has been found). Those asking the question would not see the priestess directly. After the sacrifice of a goat they would submit a question to the priestess, in writing, through a priest. The priest would then interpret her prophecies and report back to the eagerly waiting sucker…ummm, I mean pilgrim, in verse. Much like today’s horoscopes and fortune cookies the prophecies of the oracle were ambiguous at best, but to those who asked the question, she always seemed to hit the nail right on the head. As a result the advice given became very trusted and Delphi became the most trusted areas in all the Greek city states. So much so that they all deiced that Delphi was the best place to store their treasuries. By the 5th century Delphi’s position as the center of the Greek City State eroded through wars and the oracle became less trusted and charges of bias and corruption became more common. By the 4th century attempts made to reinstate the Amphyctionic League failed as the age of the Greek states ended. Being only interested in the wealth in Delphi and not the Oracle, by 86 BC, the Romans and Macedonians who controlled most of Greece, plundered what little was left.

The area where the ruins are, known as the sacred percent, zig-zags up hill leading up to the temple of Apollo via the Sacred Way.
The first ruins you walk past are the Monument of the Admirals, a recess which once held 37 bronze statues of gods and generals in celebration of the Spartans defeat over Athens.







As you move further up the hill you pass the ruins of the Sikyonian and Siphnian treasuries on the left.


At the turn stands the rebuilt Treasury of the Athenians.
Right next to the treasury you pass the remains of the Bouleutrion – the council house of Delphi, and then just past that is the the Polygonal Wall containing inscriptions relating to the emancipation of salves.







All this leads to the Temple of Apollo, which even in its current condition you get a sense of how it must have once towered over all of Delphi. What remain of the temple are the foundation and six Doric (Doric refers to the style of the columns – the tops are not decorated. Ionic columns – which as a curled over decoration at the top, or the Corinthian columns– which has a decoration that resembles leaves being peeled back) columns in the front. Inside of the temple is where the Oracle sat – even though no sign of a cave of chasm has been found – but lets not let that ruin a good story. As we sat under the much needed shade of a tree on the hill above the temple I notice a couple standing at the entrance to the temple. They annoyed me because they stood there for a real long while preventing me from getting a good snapshot of the temple sans tourists. The more I look at them the stranger they appeared. The stood with what appeared to be a book in their hands open which at first I thought to be a tour guide. But they keep standing there; then I noticed that they stood like they were standing at attention. Then I noticed that they were holding their hands in front of then with their palms open and facing up. They appear to me to be worshiping (see them there in the photo in front of the ramp?). Later I learned from Nick’s nephews that there is an emergence of a sect started by a college professor that is worshiping Apollo! Oookaaayyyy…



Farther up the hill from the temple are the remains of the theatre built in the 4th century. Used mostly for the events for the Pythian Festivals which were held every eight years to celebrate Apollo’s arrival to Delphi on the back of a dolphin. With a capacity of five thousand people the events at the theatre were in honor of Dionysus who was said to reign in Delphi during the winter months. This is the top of the theater. You can see the ruins of the Temple of Apollo stands at the bottom.

We trek down the hill towards Marmaria and stop off in the shade of the Castilian Spring to cool off, have some lunch and drink from the spring. The Castilian Spring, now blocked off due to rock falls, still flows now like it did in the time of the ancients, except instead it flows out a small pipe off to the side. Back in the day, male visitors to Delphi were allowed to purify themselves in the water of the spring before visiting Delphi.



Impressively visible from the hill of Delphi and a bit further downhill lays the ruins of sanctuary of Athena known as Marmaria. The foundation is all that is remains. The most visible structure is the three columns of the circular ruin of Tholos that are just behind the foundiation. Tholos is one of the most known ruins of Delphi, I’m not sure why; perhaps because it is so photogenic.
Ann and I walk around the ruins of Marmaria and Tholos and then head further down the hill to explore the ruins of a gymnasium (the tub is the most noticable) and athletic field.
Then it’s to the car and the long drive back to the ferry and on to the village.

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